Leather is the main material of leather bags, the secondary design of leather refers to the use of existing technology means re-creative processing, so that the surface produces a rich visual texture and tactile texture.
Designers can make full use of leather without burrs, elasticity, high-temperature resistance, and other special properties, through the addition, subtraction, deformation, and synthesis method and other techniques in the use of leather, to form a visual three-dimensional, hierarchical beauty, to enhance the expressive power of the bag products.
After analysis and generalization can be summarized as the following main techniques.
Embroidery is a traditional craft method, it is in leather using different stitches to meander through the formation of point line surface changes so that the reconstructed leather with exquisite and delicate decorative effects and a strong sense of national culture and art.
However, due to the thickness and hardness of the leather, leather embroidery is usually done by mechanical embroidery with a high degree of automation; and the requirements for the machinery and operation process are very strict, some high-end luxury brands often use this exquisite craft to bring consumers a luxurious experience.
Embroidery includes colored embroidery, flock embroidery, bead embroidery, and leather embroidery. Color embroidery refers to the overlapping, juxtaposition, and interlacing of various colored embroidery threads to form patterns on leather.
Flocking embroidery is to use the hook on the flocking needle to hook up the fiber flock on another leather material, which has incomparable firmness and a strong sense of three-dimensional shape. Bead embroidery is made of hollow beads, bead tubes, artificial stones, bead chips, etc., which are embroidered on leather to give it a dazzling effect and add a sense of nobility and splendor to the leather.
Leather embroidery is made by cutting leather or other materials according to the requirements of the pattern, pasting it on the leather, and then locking the edges with various stitches, forming a blocky pattern with a chic and generous style, which can also be used to repair the damage of bags. Can also be lined between the patch and leather, cotton, and other things, so that the pattern rises and has a three-dimensional sense.
The most common pattern printed on leather is screen printing, transfer printing, and flat printing. Leather screen printing is the use of screen printing technology, with a screen plate to make the required pattern, the leather fixed on the printing table, through a screen plate to print the color or chemical materials printed on the leather surface, to achieve the desired color effect.
Transfer printing is printing the designed pattern on the transfer film and heat press on the reverse side of the transfer paper, so that the printed pattern layer is hot-melted and transferred to the printed leather.
Flatbed printing is the use of a printing machine nozzle in the soft leather printed directly on top, leather printing machine print out can be multi-color printing, bright colors, levels of realistic, washable not easy to fall off, UV protection, especially for the pattern is a more complex small batch of luggage products.
Engraving refers to the high-intensity laser emitted by the laser, the advanced vibrating mirror to control its trajectory, carved in a variety of leather punching, to create precise lines, rich in detail of the exquisite pattern.
Leather engraving can be adjusted to the extent of the laser to create the effect of radical hollowing and non-radical stitching, and to design the effect in conjunction with the base color of the leather. Through the layering method of the laser control system, the leather base color is "stirred" on the same shade of leather, which is a transition color with different shades and layers.
This hidden in the leather base color of the natural transition color is any designer can not be deployed, with a unique, natural, rustic style. But if laser engraves into continuous large area hollow, its tensile strength will drop sharply. Therefore, the leather hollow pattern design uses a small area or dispersion hollow, to ensure the functionality of leather.
Splicing refers to the same kind of leather in different colors or different kinds of leather, according to the color matching principle or pattern modeling needs, splicing sewing into a whole design technique, through its texture of the difference reflects the sense of design. Design should pay attention to leather textures closely together, such as fine and coarse, matte and polished, fur and fur, etc.
Splicing way includes leather inlay, brickwork splicing three-dimensional splicing, and other ways. The leather parquet splicing process usually refers to the use of contrasting or adjacent color leather parquet, forming a complex pattern.
Brickwork is mainly used for all kinds of long-hair or medium-length fur decorative materials, by following a certain order and arrangement, the fur quilt and lining and sewing, to produce a very rich sense of layering and texture of the visual effect.
Stereoscopic stitching is a three-dimensional spatial form formed by consciously combining or splitting parts around a stitching technique. This splicing can be reflected through the regular and irregular, the whole and local.
The three-dimensional effect formed by three-dimensional splicing has a stronger visual impact and can be designed to change the contour of the shape of the bag.
5. Series of thread
Series line process the stitching on the leather to form a line, which can be divided into flat stitching, chain stitching, locking stitching, decorative stitching, overlocking stitching, imitation hand stitching, etc., the process of modeling usually points, herringbone, Z-shaped, X-shaped, marquee, grid lines, etc.
In the collection line design, according to the characteristics of various leather, combined with the availability of accessories to use the principles and methods of the collection line process, the implementation of flexible and variable means of technology.
Designers use different colors, materials, and thicknesses of threads on the surface of the bag, you can edit the pattern, but also by highlighting the structure of the line to enhance the sense of decoration, and also the use of thicker lines on the leather to edit the three-dimensional sense of decoration.
Numerous brands have used this technique to create branded patterns, and a new quilting process has emerged.
Quilting refers to the soft leather and lining between the padding, and then the surface of the line, the formation of strips, squares, diamonds, waves, and other regular geometric relief pattern effects, the general use of soft leather for quilting, so that the surface to form a thick and thin, concave and convex contrast decorative effect.
In leather to create the visual effect of pleating, methods are mainly pumping pleats, pressure pleats, pinch pleats, row pleats, etc., mainly to change the original surface of the material form, increase the sense of space and touch, etc.
One of the more common ways of pleating is to make pleats of light leather with rubber bands or folding method, mostly coherent and small regular pleats, lively form, delicate and soft style.
Weaving is a traditional handicraft, it is a strip of material interlaced or hooked together and organized in a way that is widely used in leather. Weaving the surface of the bag can produce different textures, but also through the weave produce a distinctive pattern.
Weaving can make the leather feel soft, you can use different colors and materials for weaving, to bring a new style of leather products.
In addition to the above-mentioned embossing imitation of the natural leather texture process, luggage design is commonly used in small with flower plates (aluminum, copper) to design and produce a variety of patterns.
Bag designers use padding to thicken the leather, and then use the plate embossed with a strong sense of three-dimensional brand pattern and brand logo, or in a special pressure, color change material embossed color pattern.
Adding decoration refers to the use of hot, paste, nail, and other craft techniques to fix additional decorations on the surface of the bag material, so that it forms a certain pattern, is also one of the common design techniques.
Ironing drill is a variety of drill compositions in line with certain aesthetic standards of graphics, with an ironing machine or iron pressed on the leather so that the formation of the effect is exquisite and has a three-dimensional effect on the pattern.
Nailing copper rivets is to use a leather punching machine to drill a smaller diameter hole than the positioning accessories, and then knock the metal rivets through the eyelet, closed with a wooden hammer to knock them flat, reflecting the handsome rock style.
Applique is a variety of material three-dimensional flowers by sewing or pasted and fixed on the surface of the bag, which plays a purely decorative role.
Drawing is divided into hand-dyed and hand-painted and hot branding. Hand dyeing and painting are borrowed from the easy-to-color and insoluble pigments in the leather surface directly pattern drawing.
Manual hot branding is through the heating of the tip of the iron in the leather surface directly book painting, in light-colored leather the effect is outstanding.
Because each time the hand-painted pattern is not the same, this crafting method on the drawing personnel drawing ability requirements are high, can reflect the unique style, but not suitable for mass production.
11. Integrated process design method
In the specific luggage product design, various techniques are often used in combination to form a more complex visual effect.
However, this will undoubtedly increase the material cost and labor costs, so the integrated process method is more often used in luxury goods. For example, leather engraving can also be combined with computerized embroidery on the leather for reprocessing, stapling process can be attached to the quilted leather again to strengthen the pattern lines.